When I think of Istanbul, images begin flashing through my head: colorful buildings as far as the eye can see, pastries piled high in every shape and size, someone handing me a tiny cup of tea, music and prayers echoing in the street, the welcoming greeting of a merchant or waiter, the tantalizing smell of spices, and of course, cats and dogs! Türkiye has been high on my travel list for a long time, so when my dear friend Ashlyn agreed to share my last lengthy holiday gallivanting through Istanbul and Cappadocia (separate blog forthcoming), I was over the moon. What follows is a full chronicling of our experience; it’s heavy on the history, conscious of food & culture, and sincere with reviews (nothing is sponsored!).

CONTENTS

• Travel Info: Tips, Culture & History
• Days 1 & 2 : Arrive; Tarlabaşı & Kabataş neighborhoods.
• Day 3 : Balat neighborhood
• Day 4 : Food Tour and Both Banks.
• Day 5 : Eminönü neighborhood.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

HISTORY: Istanbul has been the largest city in Europe for centuries – dating back to the 800+ years it was known as Constantinople (through periods of Roman/Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman rule) and the nearly 1600 years it served as an imperial capital. It became Istanbul in 1930 following the Turkish War of Independence (fought against the Greeks, Armenians, France, the UK and Italy). It is no longer the capital of Türkiye – that is now in centrally located Ankara – but it continues to be the largest city in Europe with a population of almost 15.5 million people. As of 2023, it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world with over 20 million annual visitors. The historic center of Istanbul is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with many protected historic areas including the Palace of Topkapi and the Suleymaniye Mosque, along with legendary Bazaars, and incredible architecture in the old section of the city. Türkiye is one of five countries that is technically part of both Europe and Asia, with the majority of the city of Istanbul on the European side.

CULTURE: Istanbul is a vibrant city with a blend of eastern and western cultures. We noticed women and men in public working and shopping, which felt more European than Middle Eastern in terms of gender balance. Clothing is modern and varies from modest to revealing just like any other city; however, when entering a mosque, women must wear head coverings and loose, full coverage, conservative attire is expected for everyone. As the primary religion is Islam, Istanbul has over 3,000 mosques in its city limits, which means the call to prayer can be heard from anywhere in the city. Although the majority of the country is Muslim, the culture is secular and drinking is permitted in restaurants and public places. Keep in mind, however, that alcohol can be very expensive. LGBTQ travelers should exercise modesty in public and know that although it is less repressive in Türkiye than most other majority Muslim countries, minority sexualities and genders are still generally frowned upon. Tipping is expected, so have cash on hand. Turkish lira will provide the best exchange but most bazaars will also accept euro and sometimes even the US dollar. Finally, as a general rule, don’t wear shoes inside. There are also a couple of small customs to remember – don’t whistle indoors (it’s considered bad luck), don’t chew gum near historic sites (it’s not allowed), and avoid throwing up an open hand with all five fingers spread (this is called “Mountza” and is a symbol of scorn in Turkish culture).

FLIGHT: Charleroi Belgium (CRL) to Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) round trip airfare in May on Pegasus Airlines ($140*). The airport is located about one hour outside the city of Istanbul, so transport into the city needs to be factored in. Our airport transfer was arranged by our hotel at €130 round trip for two people (€65 each). This is quite typical for a price. *From NYC non stop is about $875/pp on Turkish Airlines to SAW, from Frankfurt it’s around $170 round trip.

HOTEL: Amiral Palace Boutique Hotel & Spa (€760 for four nights, included delicious rooftop breakfast buffet, €380/pp). The location of our hotel was excellent on the tip of the lower peninsula of the main city, within walking distance of many eateries, Sultan Ahmet park and the famous mosques. The rooms were small but had sufficient amenities and the staff was super friendly. It would likely get hot in the summer if you end up with a room without A/C (apparently not all rooms had air conditioning). If you want to splurge, stay at the Four Seasons hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet ($540/night). The building is stunning and historic – it used to be a prison! We had brunch there one morning and it was to die for. For a cheaper option that is still lovely and has all the amenities, consider the Antea Palace Hotel & Spa ($58/night). Check out this amazing breakfast spread!

VISA: It is so easy to apply for an online e-visa at the government website here. It costs between $61-78. I received my visa the same day!

TRANSPORT: Be wary of taxis – they are one of the easiest ways to get scammed in Türkiye. Instead, arrange pre-paid transport through your hotel or order an Uber, as it is also pre-paid. Any other taxi service risks being over charged. A great deal of the city is walkable, especially within each neighborhood. The metro is also handy, with full fare rides starting at around 60¢; you also can purchase multiple pass Istanbulcards for discounts (more info here).

SCAMS: It’s important to familiarize yourself with the usual tourist traps and scams in and around Istanbul before traveling in order to avoid common mistakes. I suggest just going on YouTube and typing in “Istanbul tourist scams” and viewing a couple of videos as a brief overview of what to look for.

MUST DO IN ISTANBUL:

• Turkish breakfasts including amazing Turkish pastries, coffee & tea.
• Spice Market & Grand Bazaar although save most purchases for the Kadikoy side of the city, as the bazaars are known for over-charging tourists.
• Try all the food, especially simit (sesame bread ring), Turkish delight, pide (flatbread or Turkish pizza), dolma (stuffed grape leaves), kofte (lentil balls), manti (ravioli), baklava, ice cream (not my favorite, but it is popular), and doner kebab. Make reservations!
• Visit a Hammam: check the reviews and find a highly rated Turkish bath, and have yourself a traditional extra-exfoliating bubble massage (aka hammam). I had a great experience at Sultan Süleyman Hamam.
• Visit multiple parts of the city such as Balat, Karaköy (Galata & İstiklal), Eminönü and Sultanahmet.
• See from as many perspectives as possible Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Basilica Cistern.

ITINERARY

*Spots indicated with an asterix are part of a special collection of historic memory sites compiled by my friend Ashlyn (middleworldadventures) who works passionately in the field of culturally respectful, historic remembrance and memory work. They are not traditional tourist destinations, but in visiting them and learning about their history, we were able to better understand how changing laws and attitudes affected minority populations along the Turkish timeline.

• Day 1: Arrive at SAW in the evening, grab snacks at airport, transport to hotel in the city.
• Day 2: Tarlabaşı & Kabataş neighborhoods. Turkish breakfast at hotel, taxi to Mendel’s chocolatier, walk to Dolmabahce Palace, Taksim Square, eat at Babel Cafe, Istiklal Street, Turkish tea & coffee at Patisserie de Pera, Palas Hıdivyal*, Neve Shalom Synagogue*, Sirinfirin Bakery for snack, Galata Tower, drinks at rooftop bar George’s Hotel, dinner No 19 restaurant.
• Day 3: Balat neighborhood. Turkish breakfast at hotel, taxi to Women’s Works Library* and Info Center in Balat, walk to Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church*, photo ops at Renkli Merdivenler, Turkish crepes at New Balat Cafe & Restaurant (Balat Tantunicisi), Turkish tea & coffee at Velvet Cafe, walk past Merdivenli Ykş (colorful street), Kirmizi Kilise* (Virgin Mary Greek Orthodox Church), Private Fener Greek High School*, beverages at Happy Balat Coffee, Ahrida Sinagogu*, Khorenyan Ermeni İlkokulu*, Surp Hiresdagabet Church*, Kariye Mosque*, Walls of Constantinople, Grand Bazaar, dinner at Dubb restaurant.
• Day 4: Food Tour & Both Banks. Turkish breakfast at hotel, taxi to Spice Bazaar, 5 hour Vegetarian Gourmet Food Tour with Tacsier from TurkishFlavors (Karaköy, Kadıkoy, Moda), shopping in Cağaloğlu neighborhood, afternoon coffee and treats at Maya’s Corner Cafe, Hammam at Sultan Süleyman, dinner at Olive, after dark drinks at Seven Hills (best rooftop views of the mosques).
• Day 5: Eminönü neighborhood. Turkish breakfast at hotel, walk to Basilica Cistern for visit, lunch at Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At Sultanahmet, mid day transfer to airport for flight to Cappadocia.

NOTE: We crammed A LOT into our three full days and if I get to visit again, I will be sure to go inside Dolmabahce Palace, Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque or Suleymaniye Mosque, and maybe Galata Tower.

ISTANBUL, TÜRKIYE

DAY 1

ARRIVAL

Ashlyn and I were traveling from Germany and Belgium respectively, so we landed about two hours apart at the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) in the evening. I hung out at Karafirin bakery and had a light dinner of olive bread, borek and tea while I waited for Ashlyn. Her flight was delayed by about an hour, so I had plenty of time to get a local SIM card and notify our shared transport, and they were great about understanding and coordinating new pickup times. I noticed a huge mangey white dog hanging out by itself in the airport entrance, and was shocked to learn that this is the norm here; dogs and cats roam freely and are cared for by everyone. Many of the dogs are tagged (meaning they’ve had their shots and are fixed) and most are friendly. We would be seeing many more of the famous cats of Istanbul – and dogs too – during our stay.

We left the airport at around 9:45 PM and it took about an hour to reach downtown Istanbul. By the time we arrived at the Amiral Palace Boutique Hotel in the Sultanahmet district, we were exhausted and ready to rest. The hotel staff was helpful and welcoming, bringing up our bags and offering us a fan as our room didn’t have A/C. As I recall, we each had a double bed, and the room had plenty of little amenities. We didn’t spend much time at the hotel, but the time we spent was comfortable!

Day 2

Tarlabaşı & Kabataş

We woke up to a crisp early May morning, excited to try the infamous Turkish breakfast buffet at the top of our hotel – and boy, what a splendid spread! They spared no expense in delivering the best of Turkish pastries, melangé dishes, fruits and vegetables, cheeses, drinks and desserts, all with a beautiful view overlooking the Sea of Marmara while the dolphins jumped between ships. What a gift!

After breakfast we ordered an Uber ($4) to take us across the Golden Horn to Mendel’s Chocolatier in the Beşiktaş neighborhood. For two fans of “Accidentally Wes Anderson,” this sheik pitstop provided the perfect backdrop for a few fanciful photos…not to mention a taste* of hot cocoa and the iconic triple-decker chocolate coated cream puff tower (I’ll be damned if I remember its name). Behold…our Wes Anderson-inspired Grand Budapest Hotel movie dream come to life!

*Yes, we were stuffed by this point and it was only like 10AM.

From Mendel’s we walked our cocoa-stuffed tummies along the main coastal route (Dolmabahçe Cd.) towards Dolmabahçe Palace. We considered going inside, but the price tag was over €60/pp so we opted out of a deep dive into modern royal history in favor of seeing more sites. This palace was completed by Sultan Abdülmecid in 1856 as the Topkapi Palace simply wasn’t modern or fancy enough for him and his family (har har) – so he built the largest palace in Turkey. It cost the equivalent of 1.9 billion dollars to build (if built with today’s currency) and was one of the financial downfalls of the Ottoman Empire. It certainly was impressive to view even from the outside, so I can just imagine how opulent and regal it would have been from the inside!

From the palace we walked along the main road (Meclis-i Mebusan Cd.) up one of several sets of steep rainbow stairs (left) to Taksim Square (below) to see the heart of modern Istanbul. Remember, the historic city of Constantinople was made up of seven hills, but there are actually many more in greater Istanbul. This particular walk from the riverfront to Taksim Square goes all the way up, up, up to the top of Kumbaracı hill! There, a large Republic Monument stands proudly, commemorating the foundation of the Republic of Türkiye after the Turkish War of Independence. The word taksim means “division” and is aptly named.

It was here that 150 leftist demonstrators were injured in February of 1969 during a protest 30,000 people strong in an incident known as “Bloody Sunday.” Eight years later, another 36 left-wing demonstrators (mostly students, supported by the labor unions) were killed by right wing gunmen during a protest, sparked by the United States stationing a fleet of ships in the Bosporus. This event came to be known as the Taksim Square Massacre. It was an ongoing site of numerous protests and clashes and eventually all demonstrations were banned here in an effort to quash violence. Today it is a place of reflection and a crossroads of sorts. It is the transportation hub of the city and the beginning of İstiklal Street, the most popular food and shopping hub in Istanbul that leads directly to Galata Tower. We continued down İstiklal, noting the colorful cross streets and countless cafés and bakeries with every type of baklava and pastry you could imagine. We stopped to sniff the pastries and marveled at the colorful shops.

İstiklal is unique as it also has a nostalgic red trolley car that moves back and fourth between Taksim Square and Tünel Square (map above). A ride on the trolley will cost you the same fare as a metro ticket, but is much slower and more crowded. Pedestrians need to move out of the way as the tram moves its way up and down the street, and sometimes passengers are hanging onto the rails and barely on the trolley! It is an icon of the neighborhood but probably more of a novelty than a useful transport option. I recommend walking, and stopping at various places to shop or grab a treat. We walked down İstiklal, passing little carts selling roasted corn or nuts, with lunch on our minds…

Finally we arrived at Babel Cafe to rest our feet. I’m pretty sure we still weren’t all that hungry at this point, but we were determined to try a couple of Turkish cuisine staples. We chose vegetarian manti and a mezze platter with humus, pitas, and potato pancakes. This quirky little eatery was just what we needed – fresh beverages (usually they have juices, but their machine was broken that day), a friendly atmosphere, classic tunes and good food!

Continuing along İstiklal, we noticed plenty of markets, carts and mini bazaars to grab a quick bite if sitting down to dine doesn’t suit you. We also passed these noteworthy places (from L to R) on our way to our destination for afternoon tea & coffee:

• 50 year anniversary monument to the founding of the Republic of Türkiye (long pipes thrusting upwards into the sky with the dates 1923-1973).
• St. Anthony of Padua Catholic Church (red brick 20th century church, where John Paul II preached for 10 years before being chosen as the Pope).
• Galatasaray Lisesi (fancy looking high school painted in yellow and impressively landscaped).
• Palas Hıdivyal (at the top of Kumbaracı hill, this former palace is the home of Aras Publishing, one of the few bilingual publishing houses with books in Turkish and Armenian, and the first publishing house to print in Armenian*).

*Why is this important? During WWI, Armenians were systematically killed by the hundreds of thousands by the Ottoman Empire in what is known as the Armenian Genocide. Learn more here.

After our liesurely stroll through the İstiklal district, we decided that even with stuffed bellies we could handle a Turkish coffee or tea, especially if it was in a fancy, historic spot. Patisserie de Pera was calling our name! Just look at this cafe, nestled into a corner of the Pera Place, an upscale hotel that is part historic landmark, part museum, and 100% decadent! As the oldest European hotel in Türkiye, it boasts famous guests dating back to 1895, when it installed the first electric elevator in the country (see below, only the second electric elevator in Europe) and hosted travelers on the infamous Orient Express. At the time it was built, it ran on electricity and had hot running water – something only otherwise available at the palace! It was completely renovated over the course of four years and reopened in 2010. Noteworthy people who either stayed there or were inspired to write about it in their stories include Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemmingway, and Graham Greene. It is also the setting for a Netflix movie entitled, “Midnight at the Pera Palace.” Of course we didn’t stay here, but we enjoyed being pampered at the cafe with afternoon tea and macarons. I mean, come on…

On our way towards Galata Tower we walked up Büyük Hendek street and passed a beautiful wall mural that begged us to get a closer look. We also passed Neve Shalom Synagogue (below, right), one of only 17 synagogues in Istanbul, and a place that suffered antisemitic public attacks in 1986 and 2003.

And as if we could resist more treats, on our way up to Galata Tower we stopped at the adorable Sirinfirin Bakery. Just look at this gorgeous turquoise and pink motif and checkerboard floor beckoning you back into the 1950’s!? We snagged a couple small bags of “backpack pastries” – snacks for later – and continued up the colorful street to Galata Tower.

Although these photos are slightly enhanced, its plain to see how bright and colorful buildings are that line Büyük Hendek street. It was quite crowded, as one of the most popular tourist destinations in the city. Grand Galata Tower is a beacon at the top of the hill. It has stood since the early 6th century and is one of the oldest towers in the world built by the Byzantine Emperor Anastasius as a lighthouse. Over the years it was used as a Christian “Tower of Christ,” defense tower, a prison, a fire watchtower, and today, a museum! It boasts terrific views over the Golden Horn. As it was getting late in the day, we opted not to spend the $21+/pp to climb the tower in favor of heading to a nearby hotspot for rooftop drinks instead. As we left we noticed a little statue of a dog at the bottom of the tower. I’m not sure the significance, but we noted it was appropriate as we had seen plenty of street dogs as we made our way through the city! Istanbul certainly takes pride in their feral animal population.

The rooftop bar at George’s Hotel was a lovely location with a posh atmosphere. The drink menu was fancy, but the drinks were outrageously expensive! At about $18 each, we took our time sipping as we took in the views. We had a little bit of time to kill before our dinner reservations, and after everything we saw (and ate) that day – yes this is still DAY ONE – we had a lot to process!

It was a 20 minute stroll to the sweet little local eatery No19 Dining. Right away we realized this restaurant was unlike any other! We were greeted and welcomed as if entering someone’s home, and were shown the day’s dishes laid out buffet style on the kitchen counter. Each traditional homemade Turkish dish was batch cooked, presented in a casserole dish, and ordered by simply pointing to what we would like. Then it was plated and brought to our table. I have never eaten at a more unique, cozy place. The food was absolutely delicious – we were psyched to try so many traditional dishes – and the gentlemen who served us were warm and friendly. I highly recommend this experience!

We were so stuffed and pooped that we snagged another Uber back to the hotel for $5.60 and hit the hay.

DAY 3

BALAT

This was probably my favorite of all the days as we traipsed around the most colorful neighborhood in Istanbul: Balat! We had another delicious breakfast at our hotel and grabbed an Uber ($2.70) up around the Golden Horn to be dropped off at St. Stephen’s Bulgarian Orthodox Church.

The church is noteworthy as it is made entirely of cast iron parts that were forged in Vienna and transported to Istanbul through the Danube and the Black Sea. The cast iron is said to weigh 500 tons and was completed just before the year 1900. It is one of the world’s few surviving iron churches and is illustrious inside. I loved seeing the rivets up close and was impressed by the lace-like detailing.

Near the church is Women’s Works Library and Information Center Foundation (WLICF). Another noteworthy spot in Turkish hertory, this is the only women’s library in Türkiye and has a kind security guard at the door ensuring the safety of patrons. The main purpose of this important foundation is to acquire, protect and preserve historic and intellectual materials relating to Turkish women’s studies. According to their mission, “In Turkey women have had limited access to education, public expression, and publications. This problem makes documenting women’s history a source of empowerment for women.” We wanted to visit, bear witness, and pay homage to the important work and vision of WLICF.

The building itself has been recycled into a library in such tasteful and creative ways. WLICF opened its doors in 1990 but the building itself dates back to the 1700’s and functioned with a small amphitheater outside. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in Women’s History!

From there we continued onto colorful Balat. The Balat neighborhood is where the former Jewish community of Istanbul lived, but today only glimpses of that history remain (three of the 18 synagogues still stand). It is an extremely steep, hilly section of the city, so most of the architecture lining the streets is angular – see photos below! Balat is just an awesome place to wander and explore. It’s so inspiring!

We decided to have a progressive meal all day long. As we passed “New Balat Cafe & Restaurant,” we got a whiff of gözleme (Turkish crepes) and couldn’t resist, so we stopped to try them. OH MY YUM (below, left). We had the potato and cheese for a savory bite, and the chocolate for a sweet bite. To wash it all down, we scooted up the street to Velvet Café nearby for tea and Turkish coffee. We were pretty bummed our tummies were so full from breakfast and gözleme because the brunch menu here looked awesome! Not to mention the atmosphere at Velvet was super charming. We then made our way over to the famous buildings at Merdivenli Ykş and happened upon a man with a fresh cart of simit (sesame rings) and they were just a few cents each so we had to try them…and they turned out to be the best simit we had the whole trip!

We also stopped into the two funky coffee shops – Happie Balat Café and Cumbali Kahve along Hızır Çavuş Köprübaşı Sk. The cats were lounging in the warm spring streets, so we did the same. We grabbed drinks at Happie and coffee beans at Cumbali – and both hosts were extremely friendly, welcoming and helpful!

It’s hard to pinpoint our exact route around the neighborhood but we wandered for elevent hours that day, at least five of which were all around the streets of Balat. Kiremit Cd. is definitely a street to seek out as it is probably the most famous (below, left). Here are some of the colorful highlights!

We stopped at a few noteworthy places including a few spots that were former hotspots in the neighorhood. Khorenyan Ermeni İlkokulu was a former Armenian school that is now basically a store house in ruins. Ahrida Sinagogu (brick facade, dark reddish brown door) is one of the few remaining Jewish synagogues in Istanbul, and was built by Jews in the 1400’s hailing from Ohrid in nearby Albania and North Macedonia. The looming bright red brick building is unmistakable; Private Phanar Greek Orthodox school dates back to the 1400’s, but the building we see today was erected in the 1800’s. Inhabited mostly by Greek students throughout its history, today it operates as a secular school. Tarihi Çeşme is another noteworthy spot – the orange-tan, round building down the street from the Greek school – that appears to be historic, but needs restoration. Finally, next to the Greek school lies Kirmizi Kilise (Virgin Mary of the Mongols Greek Orthodox Church, arched brown door), one of the only remaining Byzantine Greek churches of the time of Constantinople that was never converted into a mosque. It remains open today!

Surp Hıreşdagabed Kilisesi is one of the oldest Armenian churches in Istanbul if you count when it began, although it has burned down almost more times than I can count and was most recently restored 10 years ago (phots from inside, below). From there we wandered through a park full of kids kicking soccer balls and cats lounging in the sun, and found a bathroom to use at a little cafe.

Our plan was to make it up to the remaining Walls of Constantinople and take an Uber back to our hotel to rest before dinner. That plan went up in smoke when all of our Uber requests were denied. Apparently at certain times of the day, it’s very difficult to get an Uber in Istanbul! It’s not for lack of drivers, but in the afternoon, no one wants to drive across the city. We know this because one of our drivers accepted the ride, but he was inside of Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (we found his vehicle outside the mosque and it was empty) and when he emerged 20 minutes later, he told us no way would he drive us down town, and good luck to find a ride. HA! That wasn’t very nice, but we were resilient. Our feet were already sore, but we decided to walk back the main road Fevzi Paşa Cd and get a full tour of the city.

So, starting at the amazing walls built by Constantine between the 4th and 5th centuries, we made our way toward Beyazit square, stopping at Okçular Pastaneleri Ve Unlu Mamulleri bakery to fuel up on treats for our long journey. They were so nice here, explaining every item and letting us try things. I even stocked up on “fireworks” candles for the kids’ birthdays! I love that they have these available here just like in Hungary. We also stopped at a nearby tricky ice cream cart, and although the entertainment was A+, the ice cream was one of the worst I have had. I hope it was a fluke!

We passed by the The Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality and saw memorials to lives lost during a coup attempt. We also heard the call to prayer at Fatih Mosque as we continued toward the tip of the peninsula. Finally we reached Beyazit Square, took note of the Beyazit Library (one of Turkey’s oldest libraries) and decided we had time to wander through the Grand Bazaar a bit.

We entered the incredible, dizzying Grand Bazaar and were transported by the seemingly endless miles and miles of shops. This is one place that is impossible to avoid solicitation, but we were ready. Friendly merchants approached us left and right, and we didn’t do much more than breeze by and window shop. With sore feet and hips, it wasn’t our best decision-making moments for shopping anyway! The Grand Bazaar is truly a sight to see; with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops, it is the largest and oldest “shopping mall” in the world. This monstrosity began in the mid 1400’s and is widely recognized as a Byzantine structure. More than 91 million people visit the bazaar each year, making it one of the premier hotspots in the largest city in Europe!

After escaping the hum and hypnosis of the bazaar, we walked just a bit further until we reached the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Park and got our first views of the incredible Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosques. They certainly strike awe in onlookers! Here there are also lots of large dogs living in the park. Most of the time they were laying down and lounging, but other times they’d get into little squabbles with each other. It’s best to keep your distance. Although we did not tour or enter the mosques, they both can be toured and it is recommended to visit with a guide to avoid lines and get the most out of the experience. I would love to go inside someday!

We may not have been very hungry by the time we reached Dubb Ethnic restaurant near our hotel, but we welcomed the chance to sit and rest our feet, have a cup of Turkish tea, and debrief our day of rich wanderings! I will always remember the little kitten that made a cozy snuggle nest right next to Ashlyn as we ate, and the Parisians who sat beside us and chatted with me in my terrible French. The mezze platter was good, but overall we were more impressed by the atmosphere and host at Dubb than the actual food. I think after 10 hours on our feet wandering Balat and walking all the way back to the hotel, we were just done for the day. Phew!

DAY 4

Food Tour & Both Banks

After another delightful (emphasis on the light – we didn’t want to stuff ourselves before a full-day food tour) buffet breakfast at the hotel, we took an Uber to the Spice Bazaar ($3.30), aka the Egyptian Bazaar, aka Mısır Çarşısı to meet up with Taciser of Turkish Flavours for a gourmet vegetarian food tour ($125/pp). I fell in love with the spice market because it was all about food – there was much less soliciting and everything smelled amazing!

We met Taciser and she took us immediately to a little hole in the wall nearby behind a curtain in the bazaar to try Turkish lentil soup with herbs and bread. It was light, thin and delicious! Next we went to her favorite spice shop, #51 Hayfene, to be introduced to Turkish delight, delicious tea blends, rich pure spices and local spice blends. We stayed for over an hour trying different things and I eventually picked out a variety of treats, teas and spices to bring home. At this point I wasn’t sure if we were part of an elaborate tour guide/shop owner collaboration to woo and solicit tourists, but I didn’t mind that we got to try various nuts, candies, tea, herb blends and spices and I was definitely in the market to buy, no matter how convincing these guys were. It was fun to learn about the origin of the spices and I can assure you they were some of the best I have tried!

From the bazaar we walked across the Galata bridge to Karaköy for a beautiful view up the Golden Horn. Seagulls are part of the landscape here, flying everywhere in all directions around the market, boats and tourists. We walked past a political demonstration (apparently there were elections happening soon) and Taciser explained a few things for us about what we were seeing. Apparently the ruling party was giving out sandwiches to people with the message that they won’t go hungry if he is re-elected. Very interesting! Speaking of hungry, our next stop was the best baklava shop in all of Istanbul, Güllüoğlu. This place has won tons of awards and I can see why! The baklava was so crisp, the butter and honey so fresh, and they had so many varieties to try. What a treat!

After baklava we had to rush to the ferry (it cost about $1) to cross over from the European to the Asian side of the city. Right away we realized Kadıkoy is the less touristy area of the city and it felt like everyday life was happening right before our eyes. Locals were shopping and grabbing mid day bites, and we joined right in. First she scooped up a selection of various cheeses and olives for us to try, followed by a cup of mixed pickles. We noticed huge friendly dogs lounging by several of the meatier market shops, making themselves at home. We enjoyed Turkish pizza (yum!) and ayran (not my favorite) drink made with yogurt, salt and water. We stopped in to sample gourmet honeys at a honey shop (this, I admit, I felt obligated to buy after trying as it was very exclusive – and expensive) and then had a few fried street bites (Midye Tava or fried mussels on a stick and little crispy cheese rolls called Sigara Böreği) before indulging in her favorite ice cream place. I admit it was much better here than on the street the day before! The ice cream was very rich and flavorful, but definitely different than what I am used to.

For $125 per person over at least 5 hours, the tour was a good deal and Taciser did a nice job showing us a variety of vegetarian treats across three areas of the city. I’m sure as far as food tours go (especially if you are a meat eater), this would be a solid choice. It was hard for Ashley and I to compare it to the best food tour we have ever had several months before in Barcelona though! I suppose we will always be chasing that experience…at least we were happy and had full bellies as we were dropped back off at the ferry to cross back over to the European side.

The rest of the day was open for us to explore, so we decided to head over to a few places we hadn’t seen yet. We had dinner reserved that evening so we opted to wander the streets shopping and then kill time at an adorable spot called Maya’s Corner Cafe (see colorful buildings below).

While sitting and enjoying a cappuccino at the cafe, I noticed a nearby Hammam. On a whim, I walked over to see if they had an opening for a foot massage as my tootsies could really use some love after all the walking we did on our trip so far. Sure enough they could get me right in, and it was a delightful experience! I highly recommend this spot, even though it appears to be a hole in the wall. It is definitely worth the very high rating it has collected on google!

I was satisfied with my services and had managed to pick up a few little gifts for the kids before dinner. There is no shortage of shops, that’s for sure! Dinner was at the rooftop restaurant Olive. Although we didn’t have ideal seats to start, the waiter moved us after we ordered so we could sit right next to the window and that definitely improved our view. It matters where you sit at Olive! The restaurant has great food and services but the photos of the dining room are a bit deceiving. Be sure to request a window table if you want a view! We loved everything we ordered and struggled to finish as it was just so much food – the muhammara, lentil soup, quinoa salad, and triangle cheese and mushroom borek were especially memorable!

On a whim, after dinner we decided to see if we could make it to the rooftop of Seven Hills restaurant to get the best views of the two great mosques even though it was raining and the rooftop seating was closed. Sure enough we could get in for a seat and both of us enjoyed a drink while we waited for just the right time to scoot upstairs to see the mosques lit up at night. It was so beautiful to see them at night! Seven Hills is definitely one of the best places to view the mosques in the city both day and night, but keep in mind the restaurant itself is overpriced and very touristy, and not all that great. I recommend getting a drink there or dessert and calling it good.

On the walk back to the hotel we spotted more huge Istanbul dogs curled up and sleeping in the park between the mosques. We could hear dogs barking in the distance, but these ones were hunkered down for the night, in the rain, and seemed content. We were ready to curl up in bed too, so grateful for three FULL days exploring the city and one more morning in Istanbul before take off to Cappadocia.

DAY 5

Eminönü Neighborhood

We enjoyed our final breakfast at the hotel and made a beeline up the hill to make it in time for the opening of Basilica Cistern. We stood in line for tickets and it moved along fairly quickly. We noticed more dogs, this time just lying on sidewalks paying no attention to passers by. I am sure I would’ve had to remind my kids not to pet the stray dogs, but I admit I felt for them, too. How does the city reconcile this I wonder? It’s not a great feeling to see them … everywhere. For some reason the cats didn’t give me the same feeling, but the dogs were definitely heartbreaking after a while. I guess we are taught that dogs are pets and should be cared for as family members. There’s no doubt they are “adopted” by the city and people collectively care for them, but at the same time they are absolutely feral dogs. I wouldn’t trust snuggling up to them – they’re accustomed to living in the street and competing for territory. I also witnessed them fighting several times. Any way you look at it, they’re a fixture here and at least they have been (for the most part) tagged, neutered/spayed and given vaccinations. It’s quite an operation!

Once inside the Basilica Cistern we bought tickets (600 Turkish Lira or $18-$20) and walked down to what felt like an underground movie set. That’s probably because it was! “From Russia With Love,” the 1963 film with Sean Connery was filmed here, as was the modern Dan Brown film adaptation “Inferno” with Tom Hanks. It is every bit as magical inside as it appears on the big screen! This incredible place was built during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian and dates back to the 6th century Constantinople. It is still operational and in great condition. There are actually several hundred ancient cisterns all over Istanbul, which explains how they were able to get fresh water to such an populous city surrounded by salt water.

We stayed to admire the mirrored columns for about an hour, taking in the illusions as the lights changed color every few minutes. It was fairly busy, but it was easy to find spots without many people to enjoy the sculptures throughout and reflect on the importance of this place. It’s amazing to think about the advanced technology the Byzantines used to create these massive underground structures that literally kept their civilization alive. The space functions as a living museum with lots of information displayed throughout. The temperature down there is fairly constant and cool, which kept the water a steady temperature as well.

We had a little bit of time to kill before jumping in our transport to the airport, so we splurged and went inside the Four Seasons hotel and restaurant for brunch and to get a closer look at this prison-turned-luxury hotel. It was totally transformed – but you could still spy areas that were clearly prison cells. It was cool and super creepy! Apparently it wasn’t just any jail – it was the Sultanahmet Jail, which was the first jailhouse in the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Fascinating history! I may not pay top dollar to stay here, but I was happy to enjoy a decadent lunch here! We felt duly pampered.

My feet hurt just re-living this whirlwind of a trip, but my heart is also full remembering how alive we felt seeing, smelling, and tasting the many delights of Istanbul! This is a city to savor – a place to come, be charmed, and dream of returning again. I learned so much and fulfilled my heart’s desires with all Istanbul has to see and experience. I’m in awe of the history, curious about the direction it is headed, and forever changed by its lively, colorful streets. Until next time, Istanbul! Now … on to Cappadocia! (Read blog here.)