Ahhh, where to begin? I suppose we should start at the beginning – two dear friends and their families planning an ULTIMATE road trip through France. If you have the coveted protected post password, check out the first part of this friendstraviganza here, as our families traipsed through Belgium for a week. If you can’t access that, read on to learn all about our epic, ambitious adventure with three adults and SIX kids hitting up hotspots all along on the east side of France!

As this would be the first experience in Europe for my friends’ kiddos, we wanted to do our due diligence in covering as many “faces” to France as possible in the nine days we had. As we know, France has influences from Germany as well as the Roman times, and we got to see a little bit of everything. We settled on a hopalong itinerary that looked like this:

ITINERARY

(Click on a day to skip ahead)

• Day 1: Belgium to Strasbourg
• Day 2: Strasbourg to Colmar (via Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg)
• Day 3: Colmar to Annecy
• Day 4: Annecy to Valensole
• Day 5: Valensole to Côte d’Azur
• Day 6: Calanques
• Day 7: Côte d’Azur to Nîmes
• Day 8: Nîmes to Semer-en-Auxios (via Pont du Gard)

DAY 1

Road Trip!

After a full day of school for my kiddos, we loaded up our two vehicles and picked the kids up at SHAPE in Mons, Belgium. From there we drove approximately 5 hours east to Strasbourg to park and check into our hotel. We were smart and packed dinner for the road, knowing we wouldn’t be arriving until about 8pm. This allowed us to wake up refreshed and explore the city the next morning. See below for lodging and parking info.

DAY 2

Strasbourg

PARKING

• When we stayed in the city on this trip, we parked here and walked.
• Before, we stayed outside the city, parked here and rode the tram into town for super cheap.
• Another good parking option is here, right in the center of town.
• Note: as of this writing, when driving into the city, you need to have a Crit’Air sticker on the windshield that you can get for your personal vehicle here. I’m not sure how strict they are in enforcing these stickers, but if you park inside a garage or outside city limits you are less likely to be flagged if you don’t happen to have one. If you rent a car in France, it is the responsibility of the rental company to provide a sticker.

LODGING

Strasbourg has many good apartment and hotel options but keep in mind it will be very expensive inside the city during the holidays, and things book up quickly. In March it was easy to find lodging and we loved our family studio apartments through Strasbourg Life iNCity. If we visit again, we would consider staying at Hôtel Origami for its comfort, value and location near the Rotonde tram station. For a splurge (and if you’re not planning to drive into the city), check out Pavillon Regent Petite France. Its location is amazing, it has family rooms, and it gives you the full Alsace experience.

ABOUT STRASBOURG

Strasbourg is over 2,000 years old and is known as one of the most important cities in the region for decades due to its strategic location. Today the city is second to Paris in terms of river port importance. It is also known for its many historic churches, international organizations, and perhaps most notable, the Christmas markets! Some say Strasbourg is the birthplace of Christmas markets, and although it may be true that it is one of the oldest dating back to the 1500’s (and the German word meaning Christmas market came from Alsace), the oldest is actually in Dresden that originated in the 1400’s. Strasbourg is fantastic to visit year round, but it is especially magical when lit up with millions of lights throughout their 13 market areas in the city. You could spend an entire weekend in Strasbourg and not see them all! Here is a little glimpse of what Christmas markets in Strasbourg are like, and you can compare it to the off season in the photos that follow…

OUR EXPERIENCE

We woke up in Strasbourg to sunshine and blue skies as we walked through the famous streets. Our lodging was comfortable and parking was nearby, making walking around the city a breeze. In March we had surprisingly comfortable temps, and most of us shed our jackets by mid day. We walked along the canals and the kids got their first glimpse of the colorful Alsace timber frame architecture. Our mission was to see the cathedral and main square and have brunch. Along the way we spotted the lochs on the canal and even white swans!

As we rounded the corner to Rue Mercier, the grand sandstone Notre Dame de Strasbourg cathedral emerged and rose into the sky. Since Notre Dame de Paris cathedral closed its doors after to the devastating fire of 2019, this great architectural marvel has become the most visited cathedral in France. The facade of this building is truly a sight as your eyes follow the rust colored, bony details upward to one finished spire. If you look carefully it is possible to see people ascending the stairs (which is possible for a small fee) to the top of the platform and guard house, and folks also like to visit the astronomical clock to see it in action. As you can see from the photo (left), there is also a mini train trolley that takes you through town to see the highlights and goes right past the cathedral (learn more about this here). It is free to enter the cathedral, and mass still takes place regularly. Learn more info here. Note: there are public toilets in the Place de Château, right near the cathedral.

The cathedral was built 1,000 years ago in 1015, and when finished it was the tallest building in the world for 227 years until 1874! Today it is the 6th tallest church in the world. It is constructed entirely of pinkish brown sandstone from the nearby Vosges mountains. Inside the cathedral the kids noticed the amazing organ right away. It is so colorful and ornate, and located on the side of the church rather than in the front or back. They were also dazzled by the beautiful painted vaulted ceilings and sparkling stained glass windows. The light inside this gothic marvel is impressive. The enormous 2.2 meter bell was cast and set in 1447 and is still in place (there are other bells too, but this one is the most noteworthy)! It’s deep resounding tone can be heard for miles. Also worth mentioning are the tapestries and crypt, and of course the beautiful astronomical clock. This is definitely a must-see.

We had worked up hungry tummies by the time we were done exploring the cathedral, so we visited a nearby cafe for brunch at Bistrot & Chocolat. This place was super cute, and although the menu was limited on the day we were there, we were all able to find things that accommodated our range of nutritional needs from gluten and dairy free to vegetarian.

We also walked through the main square at Place Kleber, which totally transforms during the holidays and is a must-see Christmas market area. Here is a list of the top things to see and do in Strasbourg, many of which we didn’t have to visit on this trip:

• Notre Dame de Strasbourg (Strasbourg cathedral)
• Petite France neighborhood
• Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg (Covered bridges & towers)
• Place Kleber
• Place de Château
• Medieval Churches of Strasbourg (tour)
• Orangerie Park
• Various Museums (Art, History, Zoological)
• Alsace wine route (tour)
• Petit Train de Strasbourg
• Kammerzell House
• Christmas Markets
• Boat or bike tour
• Nearby: Europa Park (Germany’s largest theme park)

Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg

*For an overview of all the best towns to visit in Alsace, check out my Alsace blog here.

As we were crunched for time, we prioritized the two best cities (Strasbourg and Colmar) as well as the most unique feature in the region in my opinion, and a hidden gem: Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg. In just under an hour from Strasbourg, we arrived at the château at the tippity top of a hill overlooking the entire Alsace region. The views here are breath taking! Parking is available right along the road leading up to the castle, but the road is only one-way so try not to be too picky about parking or you may need to drive around the loop again.

This château is especially cool because it’s technically a castle, but has operated as more of a mountain fortress over its nine centuries of history. The site was originally used as a stronghold as early as the 1100’s, but that fortress was destroyed and eventually rebuilt bigger and better in the late 1400’s until a seige burned most of it to the ground.. The castle lay in ruins for over 200 years (from 1633 to 1862) and was then purchased and restored by the locals and designated an historical monument. It changed hands for a period of time when Alsace was annexed to Germany, but then was handed back to France during the treaty of Versailles and designated a national palace. Today we can tour all the intricate rooms of the castle, learning about life at one of the highest points in the Alsacian landscape.

Tickets are purchased as you enter, or can be bought ahead of time online here. Adults are €9, kids 6-17 are €5 and under age 6 are free.

This is one of my favorite castles to visit because it has architectural features inside and out from many different time periods and has the most picturesque location. I love the touches of timber frame in the courtyard, the spiral staircases, evidence of exterior wall toilets, all the natural light and of course, the all the paraphernalia! The first time we visited we also saw a small minstrel party playing music just outside the castle for a festival. This time we could tell there were refurbishments happening and there were hardly any visitors. In fact, the entrance wasn’t very well labeled, and we ended up walking around the outside of the entire fortress to find it! The kids appreciated the chance to wander through the “forest,” climb on the rocks and pose for a few photo ops. The bathrooms here are really nice so be sure to use them before heading into town!

Colmar

After our tour was over we scooted down the mountain about 30 minutes into Colmar to wander the streets (mostly looking for food – that’s tricky in France before 7PM!) and get a feel for my favorite city in Alsace. Note: expect to go light if you eat before 1900 – think sandwiches, or grab and go from a cart or cafe.

As we walked into town we ran into our first of several protests of the trip. The marchers were chanting against the government raising the retirement age. It was great to see children and families in the march – it remained peaceful throughout. These protests lasted a couple of months and ended up affecting more than we realized this trip, so keep an eye on the local news – you never know what the French will protest next!

The absolute best neighborhood in Colmar is Petite Venise. These colorful half-timber frame homes are THE icon of the city. Everywhere along the canal is amazing for photo ops. This is also where the open air market is in certain seasons and nearby the covered market. We walked through the Quartier des Tanneurs into the winding streets of town, taking in the crooked buildings like Maison Pfister in Vieille Ville. Further into the Old Town, we noted the Dominican Church and St. Martin’s Church – important landmarks in the city. We tried a few places for an early dinner but struck out, settling on a little cafe that was brand new and had great soups, sandwiches and salads La Place 23. After that we snagged ice cream at Edelw’ice – delish!

• Parking. We parked here and walked into the city. Another great garage is here.
• Lodging. We stayed just outside the city at Résidence Les Rives de la Fecht and found it to be a great option for families. The rooms were sufficient, and there was a pool the kids loved! The first time we visited we stayed in a great apartment walkable to everything right in Colmar at Colmar Suites – Résidence. Both places had ample parking and were pet friendly.
• Bathrooms. There are plenty of public toilets around the city center – just be sure to have coins to enter!

Other fun things to check out in Colmar (but we didn’t have time on this trip):

• Choco Story Colmar (chocolate museum)
• Koïfhus (built in 1490, aka Ancienne Douane)
• Musée Bartholdi (who sculpted New York’s Statue of Liberty – a mini replica of which is located on a roundabout just outside of Colmar)
• Musée du Jouet de Colmar (toys that date back to the 1800’s)
• Christmas Markets (obviously – this is the cutest place and looks like a Christmas market year round!)
• Segway Tours, Walking Tours, Wine Tours

With a visit to Strasbourg and Colmar, we had the best mini overview of Alsace. It’s safe to suggest one day to visit Colmar, but it would also be a great central spot to stay if visiting all the best towns in the region. You can appreciate the other smaller towns in about a half day each, and Strasbourg in 1-2 days. I think our guests would’ve liked to have more time exploring Colmar – a few hours wasn’t quite enough. During high seasons including the holidays, parking is always the toughest part. Expect to park further out and walk when in Alsace!

DAY 3

Wow! All of the above was in one day!? It’s hard to believe! We really covered some ground! On this day we woke up early, dashboard dined for breakfast (thanks to a stop at Lidl the night before) and hit the road for Annecy, with a route through Switzerland.

Something to remember (that I definitely forgot) is if you have a European phone plan it may not work in Switzerland. Download the the route on google maps and it should be fine, but don’t expect to text or call for a couple of hours as you pass through. Our friends had US/International phone plans so it included Switzerland and we were covered for the time being. We decided to stop in Basel for a quick brunch and got super lucky snagging a table with our large party, because this place is popular!

Bäckerei Jetzer Basel was a hit with all of us – adorable plates and delicious pastries (albeit quite pricey…thanks, Swiss!) and super nice staff. Basel was the perfect stop to stretch our legs, about 45 min from Colmar and another 3 hours to Annecy. Keep in mind you need to have a vignette in Switzerland, but at the border it’s easy to pay and pick one up – there’s a special line for this. This was the only day that was threatening rain, so we were prepared to nix our outdoor plans if things didn’t pan out. The goal was to go biking around the lake in Annecy, and we were determined to give it a try! This was also the only day that really felt cold to most of us, so we definitely wish we had more time to explore Annecy properly, especially in warmer weather.

When we arrived it had started to sprinkle but it was holding off on the downpour in the forecast – so we decided to rent bikes anyway and do whatever we could! It was so fun to hop on and coast through town, a place that was pretty well equipped for bikers. We had a big group and only a couple little hitches (one spill and one chain that came off) so I’d say it was an overall success! I wish I remembered the name of the bike rental place because they were super nice and accommodating when we returned the velos (especially the one with a faulty chain, which they didn’t charge us for). There are tons of bike rental places in Annecy though, as biking around the old town and the lake are very popular past times. I highly recommend it! This place would be a wonderful romantic getaway too, with lake activities, beautiful scenery, and great restaurants.

Speaking of restaurants, the highlight of our time in Annecy was our delectable meal at L’Etage (reservations required). We were so thrilled to get in and try their famous secret recipe Béarnaise sauce on all the things – especially the fries. Everything was so delicious! Highly recommend.

For lodging we stayed at a great Aparthotel in Annecy called Adagio Annecy Center. I definitely recommend this place as it had great customer service, comfortable pet friendly accommodations, parking, and a great breakfast!

DAY 4

With our hearts still in Annecy, we headed south on our road trip – the day’s destination: Valensole! It was a 4.5 hour drive from Annecy to Roumoules where we stayed for the night. Given that we visited in March, we knew the lavender fields wouldn’t be in bloom, but we were still determined to find them.

The drive was spectacular! The mountains rose up in the distance and we enjoyed every picturesque moment. We even stopped a couple of times for photos…it was truly beautiful. We had a few gps coordinates for lavender fields, so we headed there first. We struck out with the first one, but then discovered an entire road (RD 8) that was lavender fields as far as the eye could see. This whole region charmed us right away, and the sunshine warmed our hearts! The only thing that was kind of off putting was a pit stop we took at a rest area and the toilets were disgusting. France isn’t exactly known for great roadside stops!

We filled the road trip hours with a lively music playlist, and as we took two vehicles, occasional car swapping. The kids loved drawing and writing lyrics to new songs, and we had so many good talks! Road trips can be grueling, but the truth is they’re wonderful for built in quality time if you’re with the right company, and we definitely were!

Valensole

TIPS: My best advice for seeing the lavender fields is (obviously) go from mid-June to mid-July when they’re fragrant and in bloom, before they are harvested. Even without blossoms the fields were a splendor, but they would be magnificent – imagine purple as far as the eye can see! For photography, go at sunrise or sunset when it’s less busy with tourism and the lighting is just right. Also look at the mountains in the distance – some fields have better backdrops than others, and we were surprised to be able to see so many mountains beyond the flat landscape of the steppes. Stay at a nearby Air BnB to be fully immersed in the charming farming culture. These are humble people who love their lavender! Here is a great guide I found for optimal photo spots and tips in the Valensole region.

Our lodging for the night was great! It was brand new and nestled in the farmlands of Roumoules. It had plenty of space for families, parking, was pet friendly, a front and back patio, and good privacy. They appear to be building more, and it’s a great central location for all the activities in the region. We had so much fun that night ordering pizza and grabbing some grocery store provisions over a hilarious game of heads up. I’m sure the laughter echoed through the lavender fields!

DAY 5

Gorges du Verdon

Days 5 and 6 were our favorite days of the whole trip! It’s plain to see why. On our way out of Roumoules we stopped in Riez to grab bakery treats for breakfast at Jean-Pascal et Hélène and Boulangerie Pain Prenelle. This served us well for most of the day for a picnic lunch on the go, too! Then we headed east toward Gorges du Verdon to drive the scenic D952 route. It was SO beautiful! Half of the fun was stopping at each scenic viewpoint along the way, but our ultimate goal was to hike the gorges.

Definitely keep an eye on all the scenic turnouts because there are many, but most aren’t big enough for more than a couple of cars. One of the best lookouts is near the beginning of the route around here. At this spot you can see the gorge and Lac Ste Croix, as well as the massive looming cliffs that beckon you further into the gorge. There are tons of rocks to climb on along the road – just be careful as it is a long way down! If you zoom in on the photo below (top left) you can spot me on one of the cliffs. It gives you an idea of the scale! (Thanks for this cool photo, Hayley!)

Further into the gorge we stopped for a quick hike and backcountry squat to pee. The kids did very well on the winding roads and we did musical cars a few times to change things up.

Finally we reached our destination at Point Sublime. We ran out onto the rocks to view the gorge in all directions and make a game plan for our hike through the Tunnel de Baou, then headed down the dead end road to the trail head. There is parking all along the road leading up to this trail, and it wasn’t busy at all in March.

The water was so green and we couldn’t wait to go exploring down by the river! The kids were bounding with tons of energy down to the trail. Again there are plentiful rocks to climb and they did a bunch of that at first, then continued on along the river until reaching the entrance to the tunnel. Here’s where it gets a bit tricky, but we managed! The Tunnel de Baou is LONG, and has two parts. It gets pitch black in a couple of areas and a flashlight or headlamp is necessary for safety as there are a couple of small pools of water and rocks that you could trip on in the tunnel. We ended up using our cell phone flashlights and that was sufficient.

Inside the tunnel there are two areas that break out into the gorge and it provides a bit of light for the tunnel. In one area it appears people come to climb the rock face, as holds were screwed into the rock face and even a rope was still visible.

On the other side of the tunnel is more trails, but we decided to stop there and explore, carefully scooting down the slopes of the river and letting the kids skip rocks, splash in the water, take a dip, soak their toes, and catch frogs. It was so much fun! The water was definitely chilly but it didn’t stop my oldest from taking the plunge!

We spent just shy of two hours from the beginning to the end of the hike, but we took our time. We saw people hiking who were planning to be out the whole day! On the way back through the tunnel we also noticed two naked men doing tai chi on the rocks by the river. I guess anything goes in France! Of course the kids were respectful, but you can imagine we had a funny running joke for the rest of the vacation!

We did this easy hike in our regular clothes and sneakers and didn’t need any special gear except phone flashlights to see in the tunnel. I recommend having a picnic lunch on this scenic drive and hike and plenty of water because there wasn’t anywhere to stop for food, potty breaks or water for most of the route. At one point just after leaving Point Sublime to continue south to the coast, we passed Canjuers (on D955), the largest military camp in all of Europe! We didn’t see the facility, but we saw several military vehicles and plenty of signs. From google earth it does look huge! Check it out here. Some say it is abandoned but I think it is still in operation, with only parts of it abandoned like the farm lands.

The drive to the La Seyne-Sur-Mer near Toulon was about 2 hours from Point Sublime. We were so excited for this spot because we could finally see the Mediterranean sea! Driving to the Côte d’Azur had entirely different vibes and we noticed right away it started to feel more coastal with the landscape.

We went straight to our hotel – Grand Hotel des Sablettes Plage, Curio Collection by Hilton (highly recommend!) – and checked in, getting cozy in our robes and checking out the spa area. This hotel was awesome – tons of space in their family rooms, plus parking, pet friendly, beautiful breakfast and great restaurants nearby. We could’ve stayed a week! It was a bit chilly this day though, but that didn’t stop the kids from swimming in the outdoor pool. The staff assured us it was open even though it isn’t a heated pool, but that in March almost no one ever uses it. It sure is great for a cold plunge! There is also a lovely adults only spa area that the kids were bummed they couldn’t use, but the moms snuck away to enjoy it for a bit. It was the only location we stayed for two days and we were so glad as it was just the relaxing retreat we needed after 5 days of road trip grind!

After a relaxing afternoon enjoying the hotel amenities, we got ready for dinner and walked up the street to Cedric for a delicious Lebanese meal. Everything was great and we all left with full, happy bellies – laughing the whole way back to the hotel.

DAY 6

We couldn’t WAIT to hike in the gorgeous Calanque National Park … but it turned out we had to do A LOT of waiting. After breakfast we left the hotel at 10 and didn’t get to the trail head until about 1 PM to hike…2 hours later than we would’ve liked. We hadn’t been paying close enough attention to the news, and apparently during our time in France, there was a major fuel shortage due to strikes in certain ports. Gas stations were closed everywhere for miles, and if we were lucky, signs read “we open from 11-1” or something similar. Once open, many stations were rationing gas. We were in a bit of a pickle, as we definitely needed to fuel up before driving to the Calanques to hike. We tried about 8 gas stations before finding one that was open, but of course the line was astronomically long! It took us about an hour to find the station, then we waited over an hour to fill up – but it was so worth the wait! The south of France really suffered during the strikes. Sadly for them, I don’t think it did any good.

Calanques

We drove to Cassis and parked along Avenue Notre Dame at the meter parking, which was plentiful. In the summer when it’s busier, I think Parking Calanque Port-Miou Cassis would be the best bet. From there we walked along Ave. de Calanques to the entrance of the park, and followed the trails past Calanque Port Miou, then onto Calanque de Port-Pin. This was definitely the kids’ favorite spot as it had a rocky beach and tons of rocks to climb around on. The hike from the entrance of the park to Port-Pin took approximately 40 minutes, and we took our time as the kids were wandering, stopping for photos, and exploring the entire route.

The trail leading from Port Miou to Port Pin is very scenic!

And arriving at Port Pin, even at around 1:45, it was sunny and warm and not very busy. I was blown away by how much it reminded me of Croatia! The coast was so rocky and the water clear turquoise. Absolutely beautiful.

We knew if we didn’t keep hiking we may not reach Calanque d’En Vau before the shadows hit the beach there, so we convinced the kids we would return here and play later, and continue onto the next cove. Calanque d’En Vau is the most famous of the inlets, but it is also the most difficult to reach and takes quite a commitment to do so. To take the scenic route from Port Pin to d’En Vau, read the sign carefully at the trail head and follow the directions for the blue trail. This was definitely more challenging with lots of stepping up and climbing rocks to reach the summit (and we admittedly found ourselves off the trail a couple of times, no thanks to All Trails that didn’t steer us correctly this time) but once we reached the top, the views were absolutely breath taking. There were lots of areas to scramble around and get views down over cliffs and the major westward facing cliff of d’En Vau was amazing to behold! We hiked up to the top of the hill to get a glimpse of the beach below and decide if we wanted to continue hiking another 30 minutes or so down to the beach – if it wasn’t already covered in shade.

By the time we reached the top of the cliffs to look down into the inlet, it was 2:30 and already too late. The beach was in full shade. Shoot! If we had arrived by noon as originally planned, it would’ve been perfect. It was disappointing to see that, but we couldn’t complain because the views were spectacular and the kids were content to play at the beach anyway.

We took a bunch of photos, stopped for a water break and to enjoy the mountain top views, and then turned right around and took the *proper* blue scenic route back down to the beach at Port Pin. The views on the return hike were every bit as magnificent as the vistas on the way up!

As promised, we let the kids play for an hour or so at the beach, and by this time (3:30) it was quite busy. There were folks swimming, kayaking, and sunbathing, enjoying that coastal France spring sunshine.

This was a lot of hiking for the kids, but they did great. They all LOVE rocks, and who doesn’t love to cool off in sparkling water after a hike? My son’s foot was still bothering him a bit from when he broke it 8 weeks prior (this was the first real test of how well it has healed) and he was a good sport about all that hiking, too. Needless to say we were all ready for a snack and another dip in the pool back at the hotel after this day that started off pretty tense (not knowing if we would get gas or not) and ended up blowing our minds with beauty! We spent a total of 3 hours exploring the Calanques and we could’ve easily spent most of the day here if we didn’t have any monkey wrenches thrown into our plans.

That night we dined at a hotel affiliated restaurant nearby called Navigateur. My girls tried oysters for the first time (to mixed reviews) and everyone had the most delicious seafood meals! It’s worth mentioning that our meals in France were so delicious, and the kids were all really good sports about staying up late to eat. My oldest is a growing teen, so he was falling asleep in his food most nights but he’s a food lover so it was motivating to stay awake! The food is – and should be – a big priority when traveling, especially in France, but keep in mind the timing of things when traveling with kids. It was also wonderful to see all the kids practicing their French! They did great!

DAY 7

Sadly it was time to leave. No one wanted to say goodbye to that beautiful hotel – but we made some great memories there! Unbeknownst to the kids, there was something very special to look forward to today. My hubby was returning from a 2.5 month training and he flew all the way down to meet us for the last 2 days of our road trip and surprise our kids! Thanks to some very creative last minute re-writing of the plan (because this was NOT part of the original plan), we decided to head into Marseille for the morning with the kids while my friend’s hubby went to pick up my hubby at the airport with our son. This was achieved thanks to a very creative story that convinced my son he was just tagging along on a quick work thing, then rejoining us all down in Marseille.

We left the hotel and drove one hour into Marseille on a mission to find parking and locate a spot to hang out and wait for the guys to return.

Marseille

Marseille was a sight to behold! When we first arrived we noticed a big protest right away across the huge Port de Marseille and we decided to steer clear of it. We saw fire at one point and heard some loud bangs and saw smoke – a very different protest than the one we saw in Colmar! This was a bummer because we were hoping to wander around the port area and possibly check out a couple places to eat around there, but we had to pivot (again) and decided to head towards a playground on high ground.

The kids appreciated the chance to play at the playground and were content hanging out, waiting for the guys to return (even though they thought it would only be two returning). It wasn’t too long before we got word the surprise was a success at the airport, and we began the countdown to surprise the girls. It was certainly an emotional moment when daddy arrived, as both girls were in tears and big brother was beaming from ear to ear. Boy had they missed him! We all missed him. Even our friends missed him! This trip was supposed to include him, but his training was thrown at him last minute, and true to form in the military, he didn’t have much say in how long he’d be gone or when he’d be able to return. We were lucky he could join at all, and the surprise went off without a hitch.

Needless to say I was a zombie the rest of the day, completely swept up in the emotion of it all, and probably wasn’t a great host or guide – in a daze soaking up the moments with my mustachioed man. We sat down for a light lunch at a cafe (not worth mentioning here) and although we would’ve loved to explore Marseille more, we were on a time crunch. We drove about 90 minutes to Nîmes to try to catch a quick tour of the infamous amphitheater before it closed.

Nîmes

We arrived in Nîmes at a parking garage here right by the main square just as a peaceful protest was dispersing – which was good, because we may not have chosen to stay if it continued. If there is one place not to miss in Nîmes it’s the Roman Amphitheater!

The last time I saw this beauty was at age 16, and I couldn’t wait for the kids to see it, too. We arrived with only one hour left until they closed, and the employees weren’t too excited to let us in – but they did give us a family discount on our tickets which was nice.

The Nîmes Arena was built in approximately 100 CE (20 years after the Colosseum in Rome) and is the best preserved Roman amphitheater in the world. It is not the largest arena, but could hold over 24,000 spectators. Of course there were gladiator fights during the Roman times, but today it still offers events and spectacles including historic reenactments, concerts, and bullfights! Guided tours are available, but most people do self-guided tours with the free audioguide received at the entrance with your ticket. This is one of the few arenas where visitors can go down into the arena floor and feel what it would be like to be a bullfighter or gladiator!

The other noteworthy spot in the city to check out is the Maison Carrée, the best preserved Roman temple in the world! Most of our party was spent and ready to just go hang out at our lodging for the evening, so we didn’t get to see it on this trip. It’s an impressive piece of history built over 2,000 years ago! Learn more about both historic spots here.

We spent a bit of time in the square popping bubbles and letting the kids run around together as we hung out (such an emotional homecoming!) before it was time to leave. Nîmes would make a great central location to stay for a holiday in Provence. From there you can visit Pont du Gard, Arles, Aigues Mortes (one of my faves), the Camargue, and Avignon easily, and even Marseille!

We stayed about 15 minutes outside of the city at a great place called Le Pre Galoffre. Their pool wasn’t yet open in March but it was a great spot with comfortable family rooms and a magnificent dinner with all local fare. The people were so nice – I highly recommend it!

It’s worth noting that to have dinner here you need to reserve ahead, and I made a snaffu – I neglected to mention our dietary requirements. Oops! The folks were so very kind and did everything they could to accommodate us – it was just poor planning on my part. Keep this in mind with any reservations, especially if they have to source ingredients days ahead of time like this place! Lesson learned. Still, the meal was gorgeous and a must if staying at Le Pre Galoffre!

I want to give a shout out to Bonsai, our little pup who was such a good sport for this entire trip. She loved being a lap dog during the road trip portion and slept in our luggage to feel secure every night. It’s wonderful how pet friendly most of France is, even though Bonsai was content to wait for us in the car most of the time on our excursions. Thank goodness it wasn’t too hot! March was the perfect time to travel with a pet. So glad she could join us – living her best traveling dog life!

DAY 8

Today was mostly a travel day – on the road heading north, trying to bang out the miles as our guests would be departing the next day. Before leaving the Provence region we had one more stop, and then it was onward to Semer-en-Auxois for the night. We were excited to rent en entire home where we could all stay together and just hang out for the evening. After a quick continental breakfast at the hotel and stop at a local bakery for provisions, we drove about 30 minutes north to Pont du Gard.

Pont du Gard

To round out our “Roman History” portion of the tour, Pont du Gard is the best preserved and tallest aqueduct of its kind in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, like Maison Carrée, its sister site in Nîmes, the Pont du Gard was built to bring water to the city and carried it over 51km (31mi) at the top of its three tiers of arches. Today it is possible to walk across the bottom tier on a regular entrance ticket, or you can walk across the very top with a special guided tour! Learn more about visiting Pont du Gard here. It is possible to walk all around the site and on various trails to view it from different angles (see below for views from the river and from the hilly trail above). We even were able to walk right up to the entrance of the top tier, where a fence and gate has blocked it off to pedestrians unless traveling with a tour guide.

One of my favorite features of this spot is the collection of olive trees that are over 1100 years old! These are located on the far side of the aqueduct after traveling across the bottom tier. They look like they belong in a movie…

From Pont du Gard we headed north about 4.5 hours until we reached the hilltop medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois, where our apartment was located just outside the city. We checked into our apartment and let the kids play (it’s fair to say they were road tripped out by this point) while the moms went into town to grab some grocery provisions for a dinner and game night in.

Semur-en-Auxois

This little town is a great stopping point on any road trip as it is located under 3 hours from Paris and about 4 hours from the south of France. The ramparts and gothic architecture is charming, and its strategic location on the bluff make it especially scenic. Check out these shots – beautiful in spite of the rain!

Our last evening together was a wonderful time to reflect on the 1500+ mile journey we had undertaken together and everything we remembered about the trip. On the ninth day we woke up, said our goodbyes and drove our separate ways – them to Paris to fly back to the states, and us all the way back to Belgium with a pitstop at Veuve Cliquot in Reims to grab some champagne – celebrating a trip well traveled.

There were so many memorable moments on this adventure, and as we devoured charcuterie and wine it was fun to hear what each of the six kiddos enjoyed the most. I know the naked tai chi duo in the Gorges du Verdon would live in infamy! But so would the epic homecoming surprise, hiking the Calanques, biking in Annecy, touring the majestic cathedral and castle fortress in Alsace, the awesome hotel stay in the Côte d’Azur, the hilarious songs written and sung, the countless “booped” noses, the great luck we had with weather and overall health, and of course all the delicious food!

We are so lucky to have such awesome friends to travel with – this was a huge achievement together, and I know it brought us all even closer. Thanks for the memories, Butlers! COME AGAIN SOON!